I went to Paris alone. I was in my 20's and I wanted to learn French. Classes at the Alliance Francaise would be my ticket to fluency. But I knew no one in Paris.
I spent the first few nights in a cheap hotel, sharing a hall bathroom. I wandered the streets in wonder. I practiced French I'd learned from tapes, and stuffed myself with croissants and pastries from patisseries.
I got friendly with a young English guy staying at the hotel. We walked along the Seine one night, enjoying each other's company. A lot. I made my way to the school and found lodging advertised on a bulletin board. I arranged to stay for the month at an apartment offered by a woman named Evelyn. In the chichi 17th arrondissement, a short walk from the Arc d'Triomphe.
Two other Alliance students, one British, one Italian, also rented rooms there.
During my hotel stay, I'd chatted daily with the desk guy. When I checked out, I found his card tucked under the handle of my suitcase. That's how Mohammed and I ended up going out on the town a few times. Upon finding out that his brother had two wives, I decided to keep my religion to myself and the "relationship" shortlived.
Evelyn and her student lodgers, Betsy, Laura and I, had a blast that July. We ate dinner in Evelyn's dining room every night with the, yes, "French doors," open to the night air. We sat on the twin beds in her vacationing daughter's room engaging in girl talk, as best we could, in our simplistic, flawed French.
Four women from four different countries, one each in her teens, 20's, 30's and 40's, babbling like we'd been friends since childhood. Well, babbling as best we could in a second tongue. The rule of the house was French only. And it was only fair, considering Laura from Italy spoke little English.
One discussion cracked us up. It turns out the word "squirrel" in French is extremely difficult for new English speakers to pronounce: ecureuil. Go on. Give it a shot. And vice versa for French speakers new at English. Their tongues get tangled over the r's. Each time one of us tried to pronounce the unfamiliar version of squirrel we were in fits.
My favorite story from that night was about movies. Our "French mother" said her favorite flick was, phonetic spelling here: "Krah MARE vare SOO Krah MARE." I'd never heard of it. Until British Betsy and I realized she was saying, in her heavily accented English: Kramer vs. Kramer. Surely they heard the howling from the streets.
By the time I left Paris, I had three best girlfriends and a handful of ex-dates, including David from Spain. And a lot more desire to go places on my own.
Photos: Ellen Perlman.
Thank you for this. I've been considering going back to Paris (solo this time) and studying at the Alliance Francaise as well. Perhaps this blog post is a omen.
Posted by: Nicole J. Butler | December 25, 2007 at 03:02 PM
Excellent. I say, consider it an omen for sure. Et, bon voyage...
Posted by: Ellen | December 25, 2007 at 03:45 PM
Good story from young lady. I'm also travel solo and her impressions is so nice, interesting end adventured. Many new friends from different caltures and religions. Thank you for interesting blog!
Posted by: Paris Hotel | October 27, 2009 at 05:48 AM
Great story! I found it because I am at work, where we are receiving French customers for a sales presentation. The birdfeeder outside my window is being raided by a squirrel. We had a giggle as I tried to pronounce "ecurieul", and she declined to try "squirrel". Naturally, I had to try to look it up online, and I found your story. Thanks!
WendyBee
Posted by: Wendy | February 16, 2010 at 10:27 AM
That's SO funny that you had your own little squirrel/ecureuil conversation. Clearly this is a universal conversation!
Thanks for letting me know. I enjoyed hearing that others had some giggles over the same issue.
Posted by: Ellen | February 16, 2010 at 05:24 PM
What a great picture of your solo time and France. While I only just studied in Italy a few years ago, this reminded me of that time.
Posted by: Suzy | June 02, 2010 at 09:49 PM
They tend to be great adventures, these study abroad experiences.
Posted by: Ellen | June 02, 2010 at 10:11 PM